Amy B. Trubek / NECI Alumni Magazine / Fall 2003
Many chefs understand the benefits of buying directly from a local farmer. Local farmers are can provide a fresh tasting, high quality product with a longer shelf life. A chef that develops an ongoing relationship with a farmer or artisan producer can also request produce or meats or cheese that are custom-produced for his or her operation. Relationships between local producers and local chefs support sustainable agricultural practices, provide fresh, healthy ingredients for restaurants, and supports the local economy.
Yet the relationship between a farmer and a chef poses unique challenges because farmers and chefs think differently about food. Farmers focus on the field, while chefs concern themselves with the plate. Learning to communicate effectively is a major step in the creation of a strong connection between farmer and chef.
Krista Anderson is working hard to improve communications between chefs and farmers. For seven years, Krista was chef de cuisine at Portland, OR's celebrated Wildwood Restaurant. She is now one of the store chefs at the locally owned New Seasons Market.
Krista has long been an active member of Chefs Collaborative, a national organization of chefs committed to "local, artisanal and sustainable cuisine." For the past three years the Portland chapter has organized a daylong "Farmer-Chef Connection" conference. In 2002 they launched an additional "Fisherman-Chef Connection" conference.
Over one hundred and fifty chefs and farmers participated in the 2003 Farmer-Chef conference, where opportunities for linking the supply of fresh food and demand for quality ingredients were explored.
The conference produces a popular guide to local and seasonal products. Following the conference surveys are mailed to the participants. Among the various questions posed to farmers: "the distance willing to travel for deliveries" and "the reason why this farm would make a great partner for a restaurant." Chefs answered questions such as: "best times of the week to contact the chef" and "products I'd really like to buy". The guide is a valuable tool for chefs and farmers wishing to build successful local relationships.
For more information on the Farmer-Chef and Fishermen-Chef conferences, please contact: info@portlandcc.org. The website for the Portland Chapter of the Chef's Collaborative is: www.portlandcc.org. You can contact Krista Anderson directly at: kanderson1985@msn.com.
Amy B. Trubek is a Food and Society Policy Fellow, a national fellowship program designed to educate consumers, opinion leaders and policy makers on the challenges associated with sustaining family farms and local food systems.
