The Guardian (London) | By Charlotte Denny | August 29, 2003
Liebfraumilch, the drink that singlehandedly destroyed the reputation of the German wine industry, is to be added to a list of traditional European delicacies for which Brussels is seeking global brand protection at next month's world trade talks in Cancun.
Accusing foreign producers of ripping off the names of some of Europe's most famous foods and wines, the European commission said it was considering seeking protection for a further 600 items on a special register of geographically defined products it wants the World Trade Organisation to recognise.
"This is not about protectionism. It is about fairness," EU agriculture commissioner Franz Fischler said.
"It is simply not acceptable that the EU cannot sell its genuine Italian parma ham in Canada because the trademark Parma Ham is reserved for a ham produced in Canada."
Beaujolais, chianti and madeira are among the wines on the list of 41 products, which also includes feta, gorgonzola, roquefort and other cheeses as well as parma ham and mortadella sausages.
The late addition of Liebfraumilch to the list of products Europe claims are in danger of being copied abroad raised eyebrows last night in the drinks industry.
The name Liebfrauchmilch was originally applied to wines from the vineyards of the Liebfrauenkirche in the city of Worms, but has now been extended to any wine from the Rhine region which contains a minimum level of sugar.
"It is so strongly associated with German wine that I can't imagine Australian wine-makers would be interested," said Lisa McGovern of Southcorp, which owns many of Australia's main wine brands.
Europe's demand for exclusive rights to food terms has already run into opposition from its trading partners who have accused it of back-door protection.
They argue that food and drink products such as sherry or parmesan cheese were introduced by European immigrants and have been produced in their new countries for generations.
Creating a global register of geographically defined products is high on Europe's list of demands for the WTO meeting in Cancun where agriculture promises to be the most difficult issue.
Last night France rejected a draft plan from the WTO secretariat, which it said gave away too much on farm subsidies.
France's agriculture minister, Herve Gaymard, said the plan went too far in setting a date for the elimination of export subsidies, which critics blame for Europe's food mountains.
With less than two weeks to go before ministers arrive in Cancun, the gaps between the EU and its trading partners remain far apart.
Ministers promised at the launch of the new round in Doha two years ago that export subsidies would be eliminated during this round, but opposition from France has forced Brussels to backtrack.
Mr Gaymard also criticised the draft plan for failing to include the protection of geographical terms.
France has the largest number of goods on the list with a total of 12. Britain no longer has any, after it asked the commission to remove stilton, which already enjoys trademark protection in most leading markets.
The EU does have allies. India is keen to protect darjeeling tea, Sri Lanka its ceylon tea, Guatemala its antigua coffee and Switzerland its etivaz cheese.
These are 41 product names that have been 'shortlisted' by the EU for protection. Wines and spirits - beaujolais, bordeaux, bourgogne, chablis, champagne, chianti, cognac, grappa (di Barolo, del Piemonte, di Lombardia, del Trentino, del Friuli, del Veneto, dell'Alto Adige), graves, Liebfraumilch (pictured left in a 1970s Blue Nun ad) , malaga, marsala, madeira, medoc, Moselle, porto, ouzo, rhin, rioja, Saint-Emilion, sauternes, sherry. Cheeses - asiago, comte, feta, fontina, gorgonzola, grana padano, manchego, mozzarella di bufala campagna, parmigiano reggiano (bottom right), pecorino romano, reblochon, roquefort, queijo Sao Jorge. Other products - prosciutto di Parma (top right) prosciutto di San Daniele, prosciutto Toscano, safron de la Mancha, jijona y turron de Alicante, mortadella BolognaThe Guardian (London):
