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MSNBC | December 13, 1999 | By Francesca Lyman, SPECIAL TO MSNBC

Until several months ago, few Americans knew - or cared - that they were eating genetically engineered foods. Now, fueled by trade disputes and protests, public concern is growing over their health and environmental safety. A new bill in Congress would label these foods.

CHEF DE CUISINE Matt Costello was introducing an "extraordinary" menu to the roomful of diners returning from meetings surrounding the recent World Trade Organization talks in Seattle. Tonight's meal - Alaskan spot prawns on a bed of locally grown, Washington State pea vines, pumpkin tortellini made from organic flour, and wild caught salmon - would have been standard, fresh and eco-friendly fare here at the city's famous Dahlia Lounge, but for one change.

Tonight, the meal was prepared specifically to avoid any known genetically engineered ingredients. "It's really important for you to be able to know what's in the food you eat and how it's made," chef Costello told the diners, adding that he didn't personally consider genetically engineered foods to be healthy or safe.

Outside, pepper spray floated in the city air and protesters continued to march past the restaurant door.

Out on the streets, and inside the Seattle convention center, where the WTO talks were underway, global trade in genetically modified foods was among the hottest topics of discussion.

The United States, where 75 percent of these crops are grown, wants to open new markets for food biotechnology, but a growing number of countries are saying no. And now, resistance appears to be spreading in this country, too, judging from WTO protests and the demonstrations that have welcomed the Food and Drug Administration's forums on the topic around the country. The forums end today in Oakland, Calif., with public comments accepted until January 2000.

"Two-thirds of Americans still don't know they're eating these foods, but as soon as they become aware they'll want to know about their risks," says Charles Margulis of Greenpeace, one of several environmental groups that has become increasingly critical of the technology. "The rising tide of consumer rejection is beginning to be felt."